.

ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest (IAPLC) 2011 winners' photo

2011-11-01T19:21:00.020+08:00

Finally has the complete list & photos of top 27 winners of the 2011 ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest.

1 Long Tran Hoang VIETNAM

2 Xue Hai TAIWAN

3 Dmitriy Parshin RUSSIA

4 Cliff Hui HONG KONG

5 Fa Loy Lee MALAYSIA

6 Koji Kogure JAPAN

7 Chow Wai Sun HONG KONG

8 Yuji Yoshinaga JAPAN

9 Wai Hung Tony Wong HONG KONG

10 Eriko Kanno JAPAN

11 Hidekazu Tsukiji JAPAN

12 May Kwan HONG KONG

13 Takayuki Fukada JAPAN

14 Chow Wing Ki HONG KONG

15 Wang Chao CHINA

16 Timucin Sagel TURKEY

17 K.P. Wong HONG KONG

18 Luis Carlos Galarraga BRAZIL

19 Toshifumi Watanabe JAPAN

20 Robert Oei SINGAPORE

21 Josh Sim MALAYSIA

22 Pasquale Buonpane ITALY

23 Wei Cheong Chung MALAYSIA

24 Zhang Jian Feng MACAU

25 Abdullah Tezer TURKEY

26 Truong Thinh Ngo VIETNAM

27 Ng Wai Kwong HONG KONG

Under testing of the new chemical dosage calculator

2011-04-27T00:03:00.004+08:00

Just redo the chemical dosage calculator, need to run some test before sharing to people. Perhaps if you have some ideas (see from picture), please suggest it to me, thank you.

Initially another dosage calculator was shared by a friend, I found it completely too complicate to use, that's how this dosage calculator was created by me. The first version is very simple and created in year 2007, and no improvement since 2008. This new calculator is the 8th generation, still has some room to get improve. After a few test on it, will upload it for sharing.

I am back! I am back!!

2011-04-23T20:59:00.007+08:00

Since my last post was months ago, the tank also left behind for months. As seen on the photo above, growth with green spot algae, blue green algae and hair algae too. It's a mess tank, really ugly to present, those hair grass also unhealthy and others too. Since I have some ample time to reset certain things, yes! I did it few days ago.

After spent few hours to make over the setting such as cleared the tank glass wall, suck out the fish waste on the ground, took away the drift wood, washed the canister filter, brew new DIY CO2, and etc. And now it's look clean & clear. The shrimps and snails survive in a less chemical tank, of course there are some new generations too. A serious algae infected tank is very hard to cure, but time to time monitoring is a must, and also the control of fertilizer plays the important role in this stage. Is a bit suffer for me to recall what ever the dosage I did before, so lucky that I had created an dosage calculator(chart below) years ago, now is really helpful for me.

Two days later noticed some of the algae has gone, at least now can see the shrimps & snails eating none stopped. I think need a half tank of water change today, to help to get rid of the algae faster. At the moment I am not going to add in any shrimps or fishes, to prevent the over crowded population for them.

ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest (IAPLC) 2010 winners' photo

2010-11-07T15:34:00.000+08:00

Finally I can see some IAPLC 2010 contest photos, congrats to those in top 27. I am sharing some nice photos to those who visited & following my blog, and those winners really amazed me with their setup, I believe by next year will see more great tanks. Good job & Ganbatte Kudasai(Japanese, means Good luck/Give it your best).

1. Pavel Bautin - Russia

2. Zhang Jian Feng - Macau

3. Xuan Thuy Nguyen Thi - Vietnam

4. Yutaka Kanno - Japan

5. Zeng Qing Jun - China

6. Chen I Sheng - Taiwan

7. Grigoriy Polischuk - Ukraine

8. Long Tran Hoang - Vietnam

9. K.P. Wong - Hong Kong

10. Li Da Wei - China

11. Wang Chao - China

12. May Kwan - Hong Kong

13. Chonladar Rattanawichien - Thailand

14. Zheng Ren Chao - China

15. Quoc Hung Vu - Vietnam

16. Kazutaka Murase

17. Koji Nakamura

18. Chow Wai Sun - Hong Kong

19. Lin Ting Quan - Taiwan

20. Gary Wu - Hong Kong

21. Jiang Wei - China

22. Michael G.W. Wong - Hong Kong

23. Hironori Handa - Japan

24. Lee Do Jae - Korea

25. Junichi Itakura - Japan

26. Takehiko Honoki - Japan

27. Minako Hara - Japan

ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest (IAPLC) 2006 winners' photo

2010-11-07T15:22:00.009+08:00

Sorry for not named on the top 27 photos, because I was searched & found from somewhere long ago. And decided post in here to share out.

#10

#11

#12

#13

#14

#15

#16

#17

#18

#19

#20

#21

#22

#23

#24

#25

#26

#27

ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest (IAPLC) 2007 winners' photo

2010-11-07T14:55:00.009+08:00

Sorry for not named on the top 27 photos, because I was searched & found from somewhere long ago. And decided post in here to share out.

#10

#11

#12

#13

#14

#15

#16

#17

#18

#19

#20

#21

#22

#23

#24

#25

#26

#27

Grown Up

2010-08-27T13:30:00.003+08:00

Is the end of August, I wasn't spared a lot of time for my aqua plants in August, just top up water & added some liquid fertilizer in alternate day. I am waiting for the hair grass to cover up the whole foreground, and overall I am happy with the so call 'healthy' plants. Still has some green algae on the rocks, but really looks like the natural environment. But the Pelia in my tanks wasn't do good because of the water temperature quite high at 27~28dC, if the Pelia unsuccessful plant in the tank, I will get back the moss to tie on drift wood or hang at the background. For a low tech tank is consider good enough.

Result of 2010 ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest

2010-08-15T15:10:00.003+08:00

Congrats to those winners, surprised me that 2010 ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest has 1819 participants all over the world. Compared to last year only 1342 applications. Too bad that I didn't manage to join for it, but I am ready for the year 2011. I think it is getting tough for the coming years, because more and more good design/layout done by the aqua hobbyist.

Here is the world ranking lists, if those didn't manage to get it can download from here.

World Ranking 1 - 608 (PDF)

World Ranking 609 - 1216 (PDF)

World Ranking 1217 - 1819 (PDF)

New plant added!

2010-07-20T15:14:00.003+08:00

Just bought some 'Pelia' & tied on the drift woods, at the moment still looks good, but later when growing up, totally I have no idea how will it be, and because this is the first time I am keeping some 'Pelia' in the tank. I need to do more research on this plant to maintain it in top condition, and do hope that I have more time to do so.

Update my tank photo

2010-07-17T20:15:00.005+08:00

It has been nearly 3 months I'd never update my tank, and also lack of time to take care of it. Just trimmed off the plants & clean up the tank, even the scape also a bit messy. But 1 thing I like the the grey stone has grew some green algae on it, really natural look. Planned to add on some stone in someday, and the hairgrass has some hair algae grew on it, I am not really scare about that when the whole system well maintain and it will slowly get away. Nowadays only dose ADA Brighty K, Seachem Flourish Excel & Flourish Trace.

The tiny Pogestemon Helferi "Downoi" is grow up a lot, now is the time to wait for it to grow more babies.

Pity Downoi is Alive!

2010-04-20T14:45:00.003+08:00

Poor little Downoi (Pogostemon helferi) is alive! I am saving it's life from the old tank, previously had grown up nearly to 20 plants, just a lack of good care cause everything has gone, just found the last small pity plant hiding in a dark corner. And now, it is alive, must take serious good care on it to grow more plants.

Just added Ember Tetra (Hyphessobrycon amandae)

2010-04-18T10:52:00.011+08:00

Last 2 days visited to a local fish shop(LFS) and bought these small size fish, in fact never saw Ember Tetra before, totally no idea the fish characteristic, but that 2cm maximum length attracted me. I was thinking to have some small fish in the tank, but normally found the 4~5cm in size, it is a bit too big for me, these 2cm Ember Tetra really rare and hard to find in any LFS.

Saw some others has the redish color fish, but what I have is the orange color species, I am still thinking the color has a bit wash out, need to adjust the water condition to see any changes. Here are some info found from the internet.

Family : Characidae

Distribution : Rio Araguaia basin, Brazil.

Habitat : Inhabits quiet tributaries off the main river channels, backwaters and oxbow lakes. It often gathers under cover of overhanging or marginal vegetation.

Maximum Standard Length : 0.8" (2cm)

Minimum Tank Size : A standard 18" x 12" x 12" (45cm x 30cm x 30cm) - 42 litre tank is easily big enough for a shoal of these.

Tank Setup : A biotope setup would be very simple to arrange. Use a substrate of river sand and add a few driftwood branches (if you can't find driftwood of the desired shape, common beech is safe to use if thoroughly dried and stripped of bark) and twisted roots. A few handfuls of dried leaves (again beech can be used, or oak leaves are also suitable) would complete the natural feel. Aquatic plants are not a feature of this species' natural waters. Allow the wood and leaves to stain the water the colour of weak tea, removing old leaves and replacing them every few weeks so they don't rot and foul the water. A small net bag filled with aquarium-safe peat can be added to the filter to aid in the simulation of black water conditions. Use fairly dim lighting.

Alternatively, it also does well in a well maintained, heavily planted tank. As any of these seen for sale will almost certainly be wild caught a more general setup is not really suitable.

Temperature : 75-82°F (24-28°C)

pH Range : 5.5-7.0. It tends to appear a little pale and washed out when kept in alkaline conditions.

Hardness : 1-10°H

Diet : Omnivorous and will accept just about anything offered. It does have a small mouth, though, so correspondingly-sized foods are best. Feed a mixture of dried flakes and granules and small live and frozen foods. A varied diet, such as this, is essential for the best colour development.

Compatibility : It's a very peaceful species that won't compete well with very boisterous or much larger tankmates. The tiny adult size means it also makes a tasty snack for many commonly kept species, such as angelfish or some gouramis. Ideally, keep it with other quiet South Americans, such as small tetras, pencil fish, Apistogrammadwarf cichlids, dwarf Corydoras and Otocinclus. It could also be combined with smaller cyprinids and Anabantoids if geography isn't an issue.

Always buy a group of at least 6 of these, preferably 10 or more. It is a shoaling species by nature, and will fare much better when in the company of its own kind. Like most tetras it actually looks far more effective when maintained like this anyway.

Sexual Dimorphism : Females are stockier than males, particularly when in spawning condition.

Breeding : Can be bred in a similar way to other species in the genus. You'll need to set up a separate tank if you want to raise decent numbers of fry. Something around 18" x 10" x 10" in size is fine, and you could even get away with something a little smaller. This should be very dimly lit and contain clumps of fine-leaved plants such as java moss or spawning mops, to give the fish somewhere to deposit their eggs. Alternatively, you could cover the base of the tank with some kind of mesh. This should be of a large enough grade so that the eggs can fall through it, but small enough so that the adults cannot reach them. The water should be soft and acidic in the range pH 5.5-6.5, gH 1-5, with a temperature of around 80-84°F. Filtering the water through peat is useful, as is the use of RO water. A small air-powered sponge filter bubbling away very gently is all that is needed in terms of filtration.

It can be spawned in a group, with half a dozen specimens of each sex being a good number. Condition these with plenty of small live foods and spawning should not present too many problems.

Alternatively, it can be spawned in pairs. Under this technique, the fish are conditioned in male and female groups in separate tanks. When the females are noticeably full of eggs and the males are displaying their best colours, select the fattest female and best-coloured male and transfer them to the spawning tank in the evening. They should spawn the following morning.

In either situation, the adults will eat the eggs given the chance and should be removed as soon as eggs are noticed. These will hatch in 24-36 hours, with the fry becoming free swimming 3-4 days later. They should be fed on an infusoria-type food for the first few days, until they are large enough to accept microworm or brine shrimp nauplii.

DIY a L-pole to suspend the light

2010-04-14T15:08:00.015+08:00

It is a pretty fast & simple materials to DIY a light pole/bracket for your aquarium light to a suspend type, first of all need to buy some materials from hardware shop:

1.) L1800mm~2100mm shower curtain rod - RM15.90 (approx US$4.95)

2.) L900mm~1200mm shower curtain rod - RM12.90 (approx. US$4.00)

3.) Curtain wire from IKEA - RM19 (approx. US$5.90)

4.) U shape plastic clip & holder 2 sets - RM2.00 (approx. US$0.65)

5.) Metal wire robe clamp 2 nos. - RM1.80 (approx. US$0.55)

6.) PVC T join for plumbing - RM1.50 (approx. US$0.45)

In total spent of RM52.05(US$16.50) to DIY it. How to make it? From the photos below tell more than words.

join 2 metal rod with this PVC T join. (My cousin complained it does a bit ugly look, but no other parts can replace it at the moment.)

U shape plastic clip & holder to firm the bottom part of metal rod.

U shape plastic clip & holder to firm the middle part of metal rod.

Curtain wire set included this metal wall fitting from IKEA, screwed it on the aluminium light case.

Wire robe clamp to tighten the metal wire.

Here is the final product, it isn't ugly look with all these materials easily found in any hardware shop.

Upgraded CO2 diffuser

2010-04-13T16:08:00.007+08:00

The old CO2 diffuser really looks huge inside the tank, just upgraded to an external type + DIY bubble counter(will upgrade that soon).

So far the rubber seal at the bottom cover of new CO2 diffuser no water leakage and the mixing process is great with some fine bubble produces.

Overall, quite like the new CO2 diffuser, my tank is clean look without the old huge CO2 diffuser. Since the ugly diffuser gone, now the digital thermometer is an issue to me, looks big in front. Another item need to take away soon.

ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest (IAPLC) 2009 winners' photo

2010-04-12T10:18:00.017+08:00

Recently busy about my job, that's why nothing to post for weeks, and also the new tank had some algae growth. Luckily I bought the Seachem Excel to control the algae from growing fast. Planned to do some rescape later when I am free.

For this year 2010 IAPLC, I am not able to join due to the time frame is too near, and my tank still need times to grow the plants & some fine tuning or trimming. But anyway, next year will participate in the contest.

Here are some collection photos of ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest (IAPLC) 2009 winners' ranking from #1~27 that can be found in Saigon Aqua. They are great, they are deserve for the top 27.

1 Nguyen Tien Dung, VIETNAM
Title: Moment In Time

2 Chan Shih Hsien, TAIWAN

Title: Magic Forest

3 Yuji Yoshinaga, JAPAN

Title: Time of Eternity (Yaku Island)

4 Josh Sim KH, MALAYSIA

Title: Awakening

5 Wang Chao, CHINA

Title: Looking for Mystery

5 Chow Wai Sun, HONG KONG

Title: Towering Peaks

7 News Chuan Lin, TAIWAN

Title: Forest-Breath

8 Nguyenthi Xuanthuy, VIETNAM

Title: Ups and Downs

9 Ngo Truong Thinh, VIETNAM

Title: Peaceful

10 AJ Judy Prajitno Putra, INDONESIA

Title: Fearless: Spirit of the Rainforest

11 Hsu Yung Lin, TAIWAN

Title: Rain Forest

12 Yee Kin Cheong, MALAYSIA

Title: Forest Path

13 Cliff Hui, HONG KONG

Title: Treasure

14 Wong Kam, HONG KONG

Title: The Phoenix and The Dragon

15 Tatsuo Harada, JAPAN

Title: Over the Blue

16 Zentaro Watanabe, JAPAN
Title: A Silent Morning

17 Eishi Yamamoto, JAPAN

Title: A Breezeway in the Valley

18 Zhang Jianfeng, MACAU

Title: Roar of Yellow River

19 Yeo Siak Wee, MALAYSIA

Title: Mystique River

20 Hidekazu Tsukiji, JAPAN

Title: Wind from the South

21 Hironori Handa, JAPAN

Title: Cloud

22 Pasquale Buonpane, ITALY

Title: Oriens et Occasus (East and West)

23 Szymon Fiedorowicz, POLAND

Title: Swampland

24 Nguyen Ngoc Tri Nhan, VIET NAM

Title: Whispers of Stones

25 Artur Frankowski, POLAND

Title: The Lost Canyon

26 Jullawong Papunta, THAILAND

Title: Rainny Season on My Home

27 Jamie Lin, TAIWAN

Title: Mysterious Bermuda

20" Tank Journal ( Step III )

2010-04-08T21:50:00.008+08:00

i) First of all draw out the water with a pipe to lower water level easy for scape.

ii) Started to transplant from the old tank, it took hours for me to select & trim all algae on the leaves.

iii) Spray on some water to wet the leaves.

iv) After put all the balance of plants.....it is still looks too simple.

v) Temporary solution, DIY CO2, had something in mind to upgrade to an external CO2 tank with a solenoid.

vi) After all stuffs ready, bottle+sugar+lukewarm water+......where the heck of my yeast? Searched all areas in the fridge....couldn't find it, I was really fell from the sky. End up have to drive to the nearest store to buy a new pack of instant dry yeast. Wasted an hour, the water became cold, and need to redo for the lukewarm water....later +yeast+soda..........ready to produce CO2.

vii) The previous bottles had threw away, need to make a new one.

poke a hole in the cap & slot in the pipe connector, then seal the small gap with glue gun.

viii) Turn on the other side of the cap and seal with the glue gun for double protection.

ix) When the glue cold down, its really hold tight.

x) Now is the part between cap & plastic bottle.

xi) Try to flatten the glue in between the cap & plastic bottle with the hot gun.

Tips: How to check the leakage? It is simple, put your ear near to the bottle, blow in some air through the pipe, if can't hear the whizzing sound, means no leakage.

xii) Went out for awhile to get some rocks & a background plant, really hate the LFS...no name tag on the plant. Another nightmare on separating the infected hairgrass & the healthy one.

checked water chemistry, all okies. Wait for another day to let water get crystal clear. And more plants to add in later.

20" Tank Journal ( Step II )

2010-04-06T13:26:00.004+08:00

Went to a few LFS to shop for the lights, finally I've got what I wanted, it is a the Aqua Zonic Super Bright double tube 24W T5 lamp with 12000K brightness, and it cost around RM160(50USD).

The new L60cm light fitting in the box.

Put up the light to test for the brightness. It is really a good workmanship, and I am highly recommended this light for a small tank.

This is nightmare, went back to my old house to collect all those full of algae driftwoods, the time I spent on washing it, was really killing my back. Tried to arrange it on the floor before put in the tank.

Still not the final arrangement, need some fine tuning. Meanwhile added some water to 1/3 of the tank.

20" Tank Journal ( Step I )

2010-04-04T22:31:00.007+08:00

i) Filled JBL Floralpol ground fertilizer with a thin layer.

ii) All area almost covered with the fertilizer.

iii) Started to fill in ADA Aqua Soil - Amazonia II.

iv) Slowly put in the soil and do not disturb the base fertilizer.

v) Double checked anywhere hasn't covered with the soil or too thin layer, because when the time fill up with water will cause some soil floating.

vi) Ready to put some water.

vii) Completed the first step with low level of water & added some beneficial bacteria to grow for few days.

viii) This is the 4" old fan just cleaned it for this setup.

Ready to go!

2010-04-04T14:55:00.006+08:00

Finally the cabinet is putting in a corner at my house as a decoration item with the 20" tank bought from KW, I like the black silicon edge instead of the rounded corner tank. And also bought a bag of 9Kg ADA Amazonia II soil is to control the water pH & kH, also got JBL ground fertilizer as I used before in the old tank, not a bad choice too. Will take sometimes to source for lighting & others. Just found an old 4" cooling fan to hook at the edge of the tank, need to get a new power adapter to run a test.

Thinking of order a stainless steel rod to hang the light, and plan to buy more driftwood to play around. I wanna setup the concept looks like Mr Takashi's tank, hopefully I can make it too.

My New Cabinet

2010-04-02T13:50:00.005+08:00

Just visited to the carpenter workshop to have a final checked on the cabinet, overall the built quality is good and very like it. The special color that I had chosen to match my house furniture and also the little requirement from me, It has a small drawer built in the cabinet, is a must for me. And this time try to get more ready made stuffs instead of DIY like last time. If not mistaken, by this 2 days they will send to my place. It is a new challenge for me, and also the most headache is how to transfer the old stuffs from the old tank to here(new house). Well, I need to plan it out.

On the way

2010-03-26T15:14:00.003+08:00

Just place an ordered to the carpenter for custom made cabinet for my small tank setup, the size will be 550mm(L) x 425mm(D) x 800mm(H), and the tank will be 500mm(L) x 340mm(D) x 340mm(H) a standard 54Li tank. I was thinking to put in a CO2 tank instead of DIY, getting lazy & also because of getting busier. Still under consideration & budget.

I will be back in aquatic plants soon!!

2010-03-03T15:13:00.005+08:00

Well, in year of 2009 really a busy year for me, I hope in the year 2010 too. Need to keep my spirit in this hobby since I got a placement #230 in ADA IAPLC 2009, but will stop for a year join in that contest.

The old 3' tank has grew with lots of algae, lack of maintenance. Will get a whole new smaller tank to set up with the aquascape, and try to keep everything in low maintenance is the most important. I have found that the Red Cherry in the old tank really looks like chilly red & healthy, may be I didn't dose any chemicals since last year June, cause it won't wash off the colour.

My worry now is how do I move the stuffs over from the old tank at my old house, started my journey to look for a new tank and will try to upgrade with some new system instead of all in DIY. When short of time to maintain, the whole tank really looks like sh*t. I wish my-self a good luck in setting up a new small tank.

The IAPLC results

2009-08-17T09:16:00.005+08:00

Oh my! Nearly forgot about the IAPLC result, just checked this morning. Happy with the score, it is at #230, comparing to last year at #382 is considering improved. Well, I'll try to look for the top 27 photos.

http://en.iaplc.com/results09/pdf/ranking2009e_1.pdf

http://en.iaplc.com/results09/pdf/ranking2009e_2.pdf

For my country's participants are listed below:

4. Josh Sim KH
12. Yee Kin Cheong
19. Yeo Siak Wee
28. Lim Yoon Thiam
57. Chia Chin Sing
86. Bernice Sim
114. Tai Teck Leong
123. LC Chan
124. Kenny Tay
149. PP Yeoh
179. Kevin Teoh
195. Tan Yih Fung
197. Chung Wei Cheong
230. Jason Chuah
247. Lim Yoon Cheong
248. Chu Chee Kong
253. Lau Sing Kay
256. Lim Chee Wei
261. Wayson Chan
293. Rachael Lye
295. Kenny Yap Wee Kong
307. Lye Siew Ling
310. Chong Kuan Yew
337. Sew Cheng Hoo
381. Chin Siew Yin
398. Thong How Siong
428. Katherine Ong
456. Ng Beng Chye
457. BC Ng
478. Yujin Ong
497. Mei Chee Seong
518. Zarina
537. Foo Wei Li
556. Eugene Chan Choon Kit
561. Ooi Peng Seng
563. Choo Chert Kian
566. Suraya

605. Tan Sock Khim
607. Tan Peck Poo
630. CC Yong
637. Peng Qun Hui
639. Yeo Siak Leng
642. Chu Chee Kuen
650. Sky Tan
654. Lim Kien Teong
716. Yong Chee Choon
719. Ngiam Ghee Ning
729. Ting Siang Kong
737. Kenny Lim Wee Kiat
738. Kenny Chan
753. Tan Chun Sian
775. Law Wai Ming
838. Phyo Wai Lin
852. Adelyn Wong
870. Chua Hong Seng
889. Tay Chii Hwa
922. Claire Khoo
928. Pang Pui Yi
950. J-Wing Teh
1005. Yin Ho Soon
1028. Julia Phoon
1046. Ronnie Chio
1048. Daniel Kang
1055. Ng Yee Loon
1064. CL Oo
1085. Khong See Mon
1093. Ngooi Lee Ping
1118. Leonard Liew
1124. Hidayu
1125. Chu Wui Tshu
1142. BC Chow
1144. Loo Seong Wee
1146. Chan Mei Ling
1162. Toh Wei Kiat
1163. Hin Huah Kok
1173. Chong Mooi
1191. Chong Chew Heng
1194. Fitri Rejab
1198. Kek Lin Siang
1206. Che Mohd Taufiq Rusle
1210. Tenchi Loh
1219. Faizal Ashner Hj. Alias
1226. Tan Chung Yih
1248. Loh Tuck Wai
1258. Mohd Fairuz Khan
1340. Cheng Chew Mei

ADA Competition the result announcement has postponed

2009-07-30T00:48:00.006+08:00

Aiks! The results announcement supposing out in end of this July, but now need to wait for a week plus for the announcement again.......This year must be very difficult to judge or what? The winner's scores are too close? Or there are few people has the same score??? Let's wait for the final result!!!

http://en.iaplc.com/results09/postponement.html

A whole new scape!

2009-05-29T10:22:00.009+08:00

After months of on & off taking care my tank, now it looks better. In between has problems arisen, such as lack of Ferrum(iron), Calcium and etc. For Iron deficiency is pretty easy to spot on the young leaves turns to white with green veins, just dose with liquid iron or iron pallet push in the soil.

And Calcium is a bit hard to tell how much to dose in a week, because plant does not need so much to grow, but for snail use it as building the shell for its protective layer. I did an experiment on stop supplying Calcium for a week or 2, then immediate all the shell of snail turns to white(shell detoriation), the following week onwards keep supplying Calcium, then the shell started build a shining and transparent healthy layer. In this small experiment tells that Calcium is important to keep snail in a healthy condition in the tank. So far each week dosing 1 teaspoon of Calcium Chloride in my 122 litres tank without any problems. Read more about Calcium Chloride at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_Chloride

The IAPLC 2009 is back!!!

2009-01-19T02:07:00.006+08:00

The International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest 2009 is back, the application form will be available in the end of January 2009. Is a great time to start preparing for the contest, and this is my 2nd time to participate. I believe getting more & more people joining this year, and a lot of Guru did well in the passed year.....learnt a lot from them.

More info in here >>> http://en.iaplc.com/

Low temperature tank

2009-01-17T03:11:00.002+08:00

Recently really too busy to take care of the tank, until everywhere seeing the black brush algae, since yesterday I had some times to clean up the drift wood & did some trimming works too. But recently at my place has cooler weather, so the water of the tank get very low temperature at 23~24 degree Celsius, and first time I see my tank so cold. When early in the morning at 23dC, until all lights on at noon only 25dC, the best temperature for plants to grow and the shrimps also very active.

Apple snail & shell detoriation

2008-12-05T09:07:00.006+08:00

Snail spawns on the a leaf

Baby snail's size about 2mm

Teenager snail size about 6mm

Turning to adult, size is bigger approx. 1cm

Snails & shrimp was playing together.

This is serious! Shell detoriation of an adult snail.

The most important thing to remember is that the rigidity of the shell is provided by a strong, calcified inside, with a protective protein layer at the outside. It's the latter that prevents the chemical detoriation of the calcium at the inside. Once the protective outer layer is damaged, the calcium layer is exposed to the water. This shouldn't be a big problem, as long as the water is rich in calcium and is not acid, but once the pH of the water drops and the water becomes acid (pH below 7), the calcium starts to dissolve. As long as this process advances at a slow speed, the snails is often able to enforce the calcium layer, although only at the inside. The outside of the shell is dead material, and cannot be repaired by the snail itself, so once damaged, it will stay that way. The oldest parts of the shell (the shell top) and those places that are often hot when a snail fall on the bottom are also the places that are most vulnerable as the protective outer layer is often damaged at those parts. Problems arise once the shell is detoriated that much that holes are formed, exposing the soft tissues below. In case of large holes, the snail can get problems with keeping the mantle cavity open, with lung collapse and other problems as result. Nevertheless, smaller holes an pose a problem as well, especially in a crowded tank, as other snails and fish won't hesitate to eat the exposed tissues. Luckily, snails do have some kind of repair system: they simply calcify the exposed tissues to protect them.

Return with a new design!!!

2008-11-18T10:04:00.003+08:00

Lately very busy until not enough time to take care the tank, it was like a jungle, but after changed of water, cleanned the canister filter, and did some rescape works, now looks better.

The plant above is ELATINE TRIANDRA, it is a fast growing plant, but after few triming works, it's melting. Fertilizer & lighting all good, still have no ideas why & how now.

Fianlly! new generation of apple snail

2008-10-29T10:32:00.004+08:00

After the last "Woo~hoo" of the snails, now can see some youngs crawling in the tank. Hopefully it grows in a healthy manner and seeing more and more young generation. It is very cute with a tiny round and transparent shell, and very hard working eating those algae day & night. It's size getting bigger just in a week and can't really imagine how fast it grows. Anyway, what can we do is waiting them to grow.

ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest (IAPLC) 2008 winners' photo

2008-10-09T02:11:00.019+08:00

Finally some of the ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest (IAPLC) 2008 photo can be found online, here are the winners' photos. Ranking from #1~27, they have done an amazing job. Congrats to all of them!!

1 Cheng Siu Wai HONG KONG

2 Yutaka Kanno JAPAN

3 Hsu Yung Lin TAIWAN

4 Cliff Hui HONG KONG

5 Long Tran Hoang VIET NAM

6 Lee Do Jae KOREA

7 A.J. Judy Prajitno Putra INDONESIA

8 Lee Chun Ho KOREA

9 Yuji Yoshinaga JAPAN

10 Hiroyuki Yamabe JAPAN

11 Fumio Hara JAPAN

12 Weerayut Soemphornphoemsuk THAILAND

13 Toshiharu Ishiwata JAPAN

14 Masashi Ono JAPAN

15 Peter Kirwan IRELAND

16 Ichiro Hamano JAPAN

17 Wong Wai Hung HONG KONG

18 Huu Lan Nguyen VIET NAM

19 Su Kun Cheng TAIWAN

20 George Lo U.S.A.

21 Junichi Itakura JAPAN

22 Xuanthuy Nguyenthi VIET NAM

23 Koji Nakamura JAPAN

24 Takehiko Honoki JAPAN

25 Truong Thinh Ngo VIET NAM

26 Takeshi Kato JAPAN

27 Chen Tse Hsin TAIWAN

Pogostemon & Hemianthus Callitrichoides pearling

2008-10-08T21:11:00.004+08:00

HEMIANTHUS CALLITRICHOIDES
Hardiness: Moderate
Light Needs: High
Plant Structure: Stem
Family: Scrophulariaceae
Genus: Hemianthus
Region: Central/South America
Location: Cuba
Size: Individual stem width: 0.5cm (0.25in)
Growth Rate: Medium
Grown Emersed: Yes

POGOSTEMON HELFERI
Hardiness: Moderate
Light Needs: Medium
Plant Structure: Stem
Family: Lamiaceae
Genus: Pogostemon
Region: Asia
Location: Thailand
Size: Stem width: 2-5cm (1-2 in)
Growth Rate: Medium
Grown Emersed: Yes

Apple snails' happy hour!!

2008-10-04T15:12:00.006+08:00

Woooo...hoo! What were these 2 lovely snails doing? Hold in that position almost half an hour and climb on each other....I think 2 of it crossover, do hope to see baby snails in my tank soon.....

These are the mediums in canister filter

2008-09-20T02:23:00.014+08:00

Just replace a new canister filter few days ago, all are back to normal. At the same time, replace some mediums. Yes of course, the beneficial bacterial is a must in the canister filter to convert toxic Ammonia to Nitrate as fertilizer. Diagram above showing how I place the mediums layer by layer.
1. Top layer with JBL Symec to collect any dirts from the tank.

2. Layer 2 using ADA Bio Rio provides the ideal home for a long term and stable colonization of bacteria and maintain the conditions of aquarium water.

3. Layer 3 with JBL PhosEx Plus binds excess phosphates quickly and reliably without releasing them again, to prevent any algae bloom.

4. Bottom layer is bamboo charcoal to absorb unnecessary substances, excess nutrients and to improve the clarity of water. Its porous surface provides good water circulation thereby prevents clogging and provides home for bacteria colonization.

Algae Treatment & Prevention

2008-09-20T02:23:00.012+08:00

Type of algae	Cause	Solution
Black Beard Algae (BBA)	Low CO2	Add CO2, trim, spot treat with Excel
Blue Green Algae (BGA)	Low nitrate	Blackout + add nitrate
Cladophora	Low nitrate + Low CO2	Add nitrate, add CO2
Diatoms	Excess silicates, Low light	Wait, add catfish, use RO water/sponge
Green Dust Algae (GDA)	Spores	Wait out life cycle, remove + WC
Green Spot Algae (GSA)	Low phosphate + Low CO2?	Add phosphate, possibly add more CO2
Green Water (GW)	Ammonia + high light	Reduce light, Wait, Small WC, UV filter
Hair Algae	Excess nutrients, silicates	WC, Excel, feed less, is something limited?
Hydra	Stowaway in live food	Use cleaner live food, flubendazole, H2O2
Milky Water	Bacteria bloom	Wait out, protect filter, add fish slowly
Staghorn	Ammonia + low CO2	Remove, WC, protect filter, Excel
String Algae	Excess nutrients	WC + get biofilter working

Canister Filter K.O.!

2008-09-08T18:36:00.003+08:00

After 2 and half years of using the canister filter, finally the motor is dead, the whole eco-system in the tank has stopped, need a replacement motor to prevent any problems arise.

Planning to rescape the tank

2008-09-06T11:28:00.002+08:00

I was a bit busy recently and the aquatic tank lack of caring cause some univited friends, they are "Algae-". At the moment sourcing and gather some suitable stones for the next scape. Roughly has an idea how to do it and the plan is still under developement. Perhaps some fishes will add back to the tank in the future.

Received the letter and certificate from ADA

2008-08-14T23:03:00.003+08:00

Just received the letter from ADA few days ago, and 2008 ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest certificate that for me to keep. Well, for a new/beginner got ranking at #382 isn't a bad result and hope that can do better than this in future.

ADA world ranking no.382, Is me!!

2008-08-04T20:58:00.008+08:00

Finally the ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest 2008 was announced，and I got a place in the world rank at no. 382, not bad ranking for my first submission. And I am at 26 out of 120 in Malaysia ranking.

World Ranking TOP1-584 (PDF) http://www.adana.co.jp/pdf/ranking0801.pdf

World Ranking 585-1170 (PDF) http://www.adana.co.jp/pdf/ranking0802.pdf

They are from Malaysia:
59 Hsu Yu Feng
89 Chung Wei Cheong
94 Chan Lai Chong
103 Yong Chee Choon
114 Chung Wei Woon
131 Yeo Siak Leng
148 Kevin Teoh
166 Yee Kin Cheong
177 Johnson Pang
179 Chong Kwan Yew
180 Isaac Goh
191 Kho Thong Kway
206 Quah Yi Bang
222 Tai Teck Leong
242 Ong Katherine
246 Kelvin Lim Choo Meng
256 Foo Wei Li
289 Yap Wee Kong
291 Sin Yee Yeong
298 Khong See Mon
300 Tan Chun Yih
308 Zaini Suleiman
320 Talib Junos
325 Lou Kak Soon
326 Mansor Abdullah
348 Chong Siow Fung
382 Jason Chuah
398 Chong Ah Guan (Gavin)
407 Kenny Tay
451 Lee Soon Ghee
462 Ng Kim Sung
479 Yee Guan Xian
516 Pang Swee Leong
517 Liew Chai Yuen
547 Stan Chung
595 Lim You Shyang
599 The Kwee Hua
601 Liew MS
604 Adelyn Wong S
618 Yee Pin Xian
624 Choo Wee Seong
627 Teoh Ee Seang
639 Lim Wei Yang
649 Evane Gan
661 Norlizah Abdullah
668 Tan Hua Liang
689 Daniel Yap Foong Wei
698 Kow Cheong Yang
710 Lim Sharon
712 Rock Lim
719 Wong Joon Yee
727 Ng Beng Chye
729 Nasir Abas
753 Bin Muhamad Adis Khairunnazar
775 Lim Yoon Thiam
807 Tan Sock Khim
808 Yap Kam Foo
831 Lau Weng Leong
832 Tan Han Keong
836 Saw CH
837 Jonathan Yap Foong Keng
845 Lim SC
855 Thong How Siong
859 Ng Yee Lin
873 Ho Lai Heong
875 Jason Kew
877 Ng Yee Loon
883 Liew Tian Fook
893 Kenny Chan
899 Lim You Feng
907 Ronnie Chio
914 Tan Chun Sian
917 Mei Chee Seong
919 Liau Kian Yian
934 Ng Choon Liang
935 Choo Chert Kian
939 Saadon Kasmon
942 Hans Toh
944 Ng Pei Ling
946 Firaud
948 Zainal Abidin
951 Chang Weng Seong
956 Loo Jing Yuan
957 Lim Yoon Cheong
967 Goh Siew Yong
976 Ng Zhi Biao
979 Teh Ming Hua
984 Teoh See Tiong
986 Teoh Chew Kim
998 Chan Kin Tong
1006 Lim SS
1007 Tam Chee Yuen
1011 Gary Teh Chong Mow
1035 Ng Han Kok
1040 Soh Tian Poh
1041 Foo Yong Chieh
1048 Choo Chert Fong
1053 Ng Liang Choon
1064 Danny Teh Meng Soon
1065 Chin Siew Yin
1068 Yap Kok Wai
1075 Amir Vijaya
1081 Lua Lee Teck
1083 Andrew Seow
1092 Feleene Teh Mee Fong
1100 Ong Kean Sin
1108 Sin Teck Hock
1110 Khairul Aman
1111 Ong Yu Jin
1114 Ho Sharine
1120 Wong Tony
1124 Tan Boon Hock
1125 Lee Yean
1127 Ng Choon Chu
1129 Sin Wee Kiat
1132 Ng Chin Huat
1139 Khairul Azhar
1146 Roslan Abdul Ajiz

These are the things in my hood

2008-07-23T12:20:00.001+08:00

In the first place, please don't mind the photo shows a bit underexpose, because used high shutter speed to take photo, it will cause the lights look a bit dim, and also the old rusty metal clip & messy hood. This is a custome made aquarium hood that fits in 3nos. 32W NEC 8000K circular light, 2nos. 22W Philips 6500K circular light, and 2nos. 9W red PL-C tube light(bought it wrong, suppose need blue colour instead of red). For the reflector part is using the aluminium foil that normally use in microwave oven.

Some explaination of what is the K, Color temperature is a characteristic of visible light that has important applications in lighting, photography, videography, publishing, and other fields. The color temperature of a light source is determined by comparing its chromaticity with that of an ideal black-body radiator. The temperature (usually measured in kelvin (K)) at which the heated black-body radiator matches the color of the light source is that source's color temperature; for a black body source, it is directly related to Planck's law. Yellow-red colors are considered warm, and blue-green colors are considered cool. Confusingly, higher Kelvin temperatures (3600–5500 K) are considered cool and lower color temperatures (2700–3000 K) are considered warm. Cool light produces higher contrast and is considered better for visual tasks. Warm light is preferred for living spaces because it is considered more flattering to skin tones and clothing. Color temperatures in the 2700–3600 K range is recommended for most general indoor and task lighting.

From the photo above can compare between the 8000K & 6500K colour temperature of the lights, the lower the K value means the more yellow or warm in the flourescent tube. 6500K is the good colour temperature for a healthy plant to grow and almost like the outdoor(places near to Equator, such like South America, Africa and Asia), and when reach to 8000K is almost like in the middle of the mountain, some people using over 10000K of tube lights, the brightness is like standing on top of the mountain looking out from their eyes.

Update: 3' Aquatic Tank

2008-07-22T12:01:00.004+08:00

The photo above is a month plus without a good care and left behind, then overwhelm with black brush algae. After replace with the 8000K flourescent light, can see some good sign on the red leaves plant. Certainly, the Micranthemum umbrosum drying without the consistent dosage of nutrient
Thereafter put in some time to do the trimming work, now the tank(aquascape) looks better and tidy.

Installed new lights

2008-07-17T01:08:00.002+08:00

I have found a circular light from a local electrical shop, it is 8000K colour temperature with 2360lm and the cost is only RM18(US$5.45). It's brand is NEC - After Glow 3-band Type Daylight Color( FCL32EDF/30-SHG ), fully made in Japan.

" With a color temperature of 8,000K EDF-SHG* lamp emits light that emphasizes white colors and creates a cool, refreshing and clean-looking ambiance. This lamp is better suited to situations such as living rooms, bedrooms, corridors and kitchens where lights are turned off last of all."

After installed and tried for a week, plant grows and carpet plants producing O2, compare to existing Philips 32W circular tube light not doing so well.

Plant Nutrient Deficiency Symptoms

2008-06-07T01:59:00.014+08:00

Macronutrients

Calcium (Ca)

Symptoms: New leaves are distorted or hook shaped. The growing tip may die. Contributes to blossom end rot in tomatoes, tip burn of cabbage and brown/black heart of escarole & celery.
Sources: Any compound containing the word 'calcium'. Also gypsum.
Notes: Not often a deficiency problem and too much will inhibit other nutrients.

Nitrogen (N)

Symptoms: Older leaves, generally at the bottom of the plant, will yellow. Remaining foliage is often light green. Stems may also yellow and may become spindly. Growth slows.
Sources: Any compound containing the words: 'nitrate', 'ammonium' or 'urea'. Also manure.
Notes: Many forms of nitrogen are water soluble and wash away.

Magnesium (Mg)

Symptoms: Slow growth and leaves turn pale yellow, sometimes just on the outer edges. New growth may be yellow with dark spots.
Sources: Compounds containing the word 'magnesium', such as Epson Salts.

Phosphorus (P)

Symptoms: Small leaves that may take on a reddish-purple tint. Leaf tips can look burnt and older leaves become almost black. Reduced flowers or seed production.
Sources: Compounds containing the words 'phosphate' or 'bone'. Also greensand.
Notes: Very dependent on pH range.

Potassium (K)

Symptoms: Older leaves may look scorched around the edges and/or wilted. Interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between the leaf veins) develops.
Sources: Compounds containing the words 'potassium' or 'potash'.

Sulfur (S)

Symptoms: New growth turns pale yellow, older growth stays green. Stunts growth.
Sources: Compounds containing the word 'sulfate'.

Micronutrients

Boron (B)

Symptoms: Poor stem and root growth. Terminal (end) buds may die. Witches brooms sometimes form.
Sources: Compounds containing the words 'borax' or 'borate'.

Copper (Cu)

Symptoms: Stunted growth. Leaves can become limp, curl, or drop. Seed stalks also become limp and bend over.
Sources: Compounds containing the words 'copper', 'cupric' or 'cuprous'.

Manganese (Mn)

Symptoms: Growth slows. Younger leaves turn pale yellow, often starting between veins. May develop dark or dead spots. Leaves and shoots diminished in size. Failure to bloom.
Sources: Compounds containing the words 'manganese' or 'manganous'.

Molybdenum (Mo)

Symptoms: Older leaves yellow, remaining foliage turns light green. Leaves can become narrow and distorted.
Sources: Compounds containing the words 'molybdate' or 'molybdic'.
Notes: Sometimes confused with nitrogen deficiency.

Zinc (Zn)

Symptoms: Yellowing between veins of new growth. Terminal (end) leaves may form a rosette.
Sources: Compounds containing the word 'zinc'.
Notes: Can become limited in higher pH.

Feeding Aquarium Plants

2008-06-07T01:21:00.014+08:00

Plants require a number of organic and mineral nutrients in order to maintain steady growth and good general health. Most of these nutrients are only require in tiny amounts but without them, vital biology functions cannot be carried out properly. Nutrients can be considered as a plant’s ‘diet’; without a proper diet, health problems arise and the plant will become ‘ill’. The number of nutrients that any given plant requires is extensive and can be provided in a number of ways. Looking at the function of various nutrients, their availability in the aquarium and assessing their importance is a good way of devising a ‘shopping list’ for suitable sources of fertilization.

Macro- and micronutrients
Plant nutrients are often described as macro- or micronutrients, depending on the quantities of a particular nutrient required by a plant.

Macronutrients are required in the greatest quantities; these include calcium, carbon, hydrogen, magnesium, nitrogen, oxygen, phosphorus, sulphur and potassium. Many macronutrients are readily available in the aquarium; for example, oxygen and hydrogen are normally always present in more than sufficient quantities, whilst calcium and nitrogen are usually present. Calcium is only found at low levels in very soft water and nitrogen can be absorbed by plants in the form of nitrates and ammonium, which are normally present as a result of biology filtration or from fish/organic waste. Therefore the only macronutrients that the aquarist normally needs to supply are carbon, magnesium, phosphorus, sulphur and potassium.

Micronutrients are only required in very small quantities and are often described as trace elements. Micronutrients include boron, copper, manganese, molybdenum, chlorine, nickel, iron and zinc. Both macro- and micronutrients are equally vital to the overall health of aquatic plants. Whereas macronutrients are usually used for structural components, such as cells, proteins and fats, micronutrients are used for cellular functions and the activation of vital enzymes. Micronutrients can be consider as important for the correct ‘management and control’ of plant biology. ‘Trace elements’ can be found in many liquid fertilizers, as well as in most tap water sources, but are often used up quickly in aquariums both by plants as nutrients and through binding to organic molecules.

Sources of nutrients
In the aquarium, nutrients can be supplied to plants from a number of sources. Because plants take up nutrients both through their leaves and the roots, nutrients should be made available in the substrate and the water. Micronutrients, or trace elements, are only needed in small amounts and are often present in most tap water supplies. However, some may quickly bond with other elements, making larger molecules that are unavailable to plants. They may also need to be supplied in quantity in the substrate or additionally through liquid fertilizers added to the water. The major difference between liquid fertilizers may need to be replaced weekly or every two weeks, whereas substrate fertilizers are normally present for longer periods. The tank substrate acts as a ‘storage’ facility for some nutrients. The lack of high oxygen levels and water movement in a compact substrate will prevent nutrients from being moved around, oxidized, bonded with carbonates or otherwise made unavailable to plants. In addition, the high amount of organic matter in most substrates allows natural chelates to bond with nutrients, allowing a large quantity of nutrients to be present, while a slow release reduces the amount of ‘available’ nutrients. Substrate fertilization can be achieved using propriety substrate mixes or tablet fertilizer.

Nutrient-rich substrates
Ready-made, nutrient-rich additives are widely available and usually designed as a main substrate, or to be mixed with small-grade inert substrate. These substrates are high in many of the nutrients required by plants and not commonly available through other sources (tap water, natural processes, etc.). In an established aquarium, most of these nutrients are released slowly over long periods of time, making nutrient-rich substrates an ideal long term fertilizing solution. Most nutrient-rich substrates will only begin to run out of nutrients after two to three years. However, if you carry out regular small water changes and allow some organic waste to build up in the substrate, it will naturally become a ‘sink’ for trapping and slowly releasing nutrients indefinitely. Regular small water changes and liquid iron fertilization should be enough to continually ‘recharge’ an established substrate that incorporates a suitable nutrient-rich additive.

Tablet fertilizer
Tablet fertilizers provide a localized supply of nutrients. They are concentrated forms of nutrient-rich substrate additives and particularly high in iron. Some faster-growing plants use vast amounts of iron, and supplying a concentrated source at the roots will help to prevent iron deficiency problems. Deficiencies in other plants, which may not be able to compete for available iron as quickly, will also be reduced or prevented. Do not use tablets as a ‘whole-aquarium’ solution to universal fertilization or iron fertilization, but only to provide an additional source of nutrients for individual plants. Tablets are not required, even locally, when soil-based substrates are used.

Liquid fertilizers
Several ‘off-the-shelf’ liquid fertilizers are available for aquatic plants, but they should be used with caution because over-fertilization can cause problems with algae and metal toxicity. Generally speaking, you get what you pay for when you buy liquid fertilizers; some of the more specialized products are far more valuable and contain the correct quantities of the required nutrients without oversupplying or lacking some elements.
Liquid fertilizers can be particularly useful in supplying chelated iron to the aquarium. Although iron is a micronutrient and only needed in small quantities, it is often unavailable in the aquarium unless it is provided in a chelated form that will slowly release a useable form of iron over long periods. Many of the nutrients in liquid fertilizers will become unusable after a short period, usually through binding with other elements or through oxidation. For this reason it is important to dose the aquarium on a regular basis, normally weekly or fortnightly.

Carbon dioxide fertilization
In most planted aquariums, CO2 fertilization is vital for plant health and is often the limiting factor in overall growth. Without adequate levels of CO2, plants cannot photosynthesis effectively and therefore cannot produce the energy needed to perform basic physiological functions. There are several ways of introducing CO2 into the aquarium. It is created naturally through fish and plant respiration, but mostly by bacteria as they break down organic matter. Many soil-based and established substrates continually release CO2, which can be used by aquatic plants. However, the quantities produced by these processes are minimal and would not be enough for heavily planted tanks. This is why additional fertilization is essential.
Furthermore, the air/water exchange in an aquarium continually releases a large quantity of CO2 into the atmosphere that must be replaced. Various devices designed to introduce CO2 into the aquarium are available for hobbyists and these include those using tablets that slowly release CO2, slow-release chemical reactors and pressured CO2 cylinder that can be adjusted and set by timers. All these systems introduce CO2 gas directly into the aquarium water. The aim is to keep the gas in contact with the water long enough for it to be available for plants to absorb.

Added some plants

2008-06-06T14:19:00.006+08:00

Actually I couldn't wait for the slow growth rate of Hemianthus Callitrichoides (HC) is fully growing in the front part and try to get in some bigger pot of it to plant. And so lucky that saw some Pogostemon Helferi available in local fish shop too.

Photo above is showing the overall view of new plants planted.

(1) Hemianthus Callitrichoides (HC) having light green and bigger leaves that they grew it emersed.

(2) & (3) Pogostemon Helferi, on the left is newly bought, and on the right is it has been in the tank for months.

(4) Pogostemon Helferi, when bought it has a main stem with 2 side shoots, in a total I got 3 plants.

(5) Those HC was grew emerged by me, tried to tie it this way to prevent the shrimps to seize the small plants. (the roots already grow inside the foam)

(6) A healthy HC, and most of the leaves are less than 2mm, I love to see the mini leaves of HC.

Update: 3' planted tank.

2008-06-05T09:22:00.006+08:00

After a busy week of preparation for the contest submission, and here is the updated photo of my planted tank. Aren't added any new plant, but all growing as normal. Just that recenly has some nutrient deficiency sign on the leaves, I believe that cause by cut too many times and without a good root system or my recent added Calcium in it. The Calcium is helping the plant to develop their structural and need more nutrients as well, once the soil base is nutirents deficiency, on the leaves will show some signs. What I need to do is to balance the nutrients in the coming weeks.

Added Calcium in my tank

2008-05-23T15:24:00.007+08:00

Recently a forumer told me that the Anubias has the symptoms of nutrient deficiency, because the leaves bending too curly. After serched on internet, found out Calcium deficiency is the cause of curly leaves.
I got my-self 1Kg of Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) because of it is easier dissolve in the water instead of Calcium Carbonate. Not too sure about Calcium Nitrate, Calcium Sulphate and etc. Calcium Chloride is harmless to plants.
It can also be used in the planted aquarium hobby for adding bio-available calcium in solution for calcium-using animals such as shrimps and snails.
Test and correct the pH if needed because calcium deficiency is often associated with low pH.

Plant biology (Part-2)

2008-05-19T16:54:00.003+08:00

Cell structure
The vital life processes of plants, such as photosynthesis, respiration, nutrient transfer and gas exchange, all take place within individual cells. All cells are made up of the same structural components and it is variation in these that creates different cells for different purposes.

Plant anatomy
Although some plants lack of central stem, and plants such as mosses and fern do not produce flowers, the anatomy of most plants can be split into four basic zones; the roots, stem, leaves and flowers. All these parts play a vital role in the plant’s basic functions, including growth, reproduction, nutrient-collection and storage.
Types of root
The roots of most of the plants are a combination of a number of central roots, up to 1.5mm(0.016in) in diameter, with many smaller roots trailing off. Terrestrial roots have fine hairs for trapping moisture, but these are not present in aquatic plants, although they may develop on some bog plants when grown out of water.
The function of stem
A stem in most aquatic plants and performs two basic functions: support and transport. The stem’s function is aided by supporting gas – or air – filled cells that provide buoyancy and help to keep the plant upright. Since the surrounding water provides much of a plant’s support, aquatic stems are often much thinner and more flexible than the terrestrial stems. Flexible stems allow the plant to move with the water, rather than try to hold steady to hold against it, risking damage.

Leaves
The leaves of a plant are essential tools for collecting sunlight to use in a process of photosynthesis. Gas exchange and some collection of nutrients are also carried out by the leaves. The leaves of terrestrial plants have a think, waxy outer layer called cuticle, which protects the plant from drying out. In aquatic plants this layer is much thinner and liquid is able to pass through much more easily, which helps the plant to take up nutrients. Aquatic plants that produce aerial leaves often show two different leaf shapes below and above the water. This is due to different environments and a change in the cuticle layer.

Flowers
Although not all aquatic plants are likely to produce flowers in the aquarium, the majorities are flowering plants and will produce seeds and reproduce by flowering in nature. The flowers are usually produced above water, where they can be pollinated by insects, just as terrestrial ones are. Some aquatic plants produce flower beneath the water surface. In these instances, the seeds are capable of floating downstream and a few species do not produce flowers at all, preferring to reproduce by purely asexual means.

(Contents are taken from the book of MiniEncyclopedia Aquarium Plants)

Plant biology (Part-1)

2008-05-18T01:05:00.006+08:00

Although there are a few exceptions, plants in general do not consume other organisms to obtain the energy and the basic elements they need to live, grow and reproduce. Instead, they use the processes of photosynthesis to obtain energy, and absorb vital elements directly from the surrounding environment. This is simplified way of life has allowed plants to thrive and spread in many habitats, becoming the basis of support for more complex organisms and food chains. Plants are producers rather than consumers; they ‘produce’ biological material rather than consume’ it.
Plants developed on land before venturing under water and although aquatic plants are highly adapted to the underwater environment, many of their physical attributes can be traced back to their terrestrial ancestry.
Looking at the biology and structure of aquatic plants, helps us to understand why certain conditions are needed in the aquarium if we want to keep aquatic plants successfully.

Photosynthesis
The unique function that plants possess is the ability to obtain energy from sunlight, carbon dioxide and water, using the process of photosynthesis. Photosynthetic cells within the leaves and stem tissues contain pigments that trap light energy to break down the molecular structure of water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen. The hydrogen binds first to carbon dioxide and then oxygen to form glucose, which is a basic sugar and an important source of energy. Some oxygen is left over from this process and is released back into the water, where it is either used up by bacteria and animals for their respiration or release into the atmosphere at the water surface.
The glucose produces from photosynthesis is water soluble and, if stored in large quantities, will absorb water and enlarge the cells that contain it. Obviously, this is undesirable for plants, so the glucose is quickly converted into an insoluble starch compound and transported to various parts of the plant for storage, in most cases to the upper root area. Many plants store starch in tubes, rhizomes and bulbs. The starch can be easily converted back into glucose and transported around the plant when needed for energy or growth.

Factors affecting photosynthesis
A plant has very little control over the rate of photosynthesis is that occurs its cells. A number of environmental factors are responsible for the productivity of the photosynthesis cells and it is always the factor in least supply that limits the rate of photosynthesis. The aim in the aquarium is to remove the majority of constraints on photosynthesis to obtain the optimum level.
Higher rates of photosynthesis will encourage faster growth, reproduction and improved plant health. Light is the most obvious environmental factor, but temperature, carbon dioxide levels and nutrient availability also affect the rate of photosynthesis. In bright conditions, plant may receive more light than it needs to produce adequate amounts of glucose. At night, plants stop photosynthesis and only start again in daylight.

Respiration and oxygen levels
Respiration helps to break down food sources and release energy into the cells. During the process, oxygen is used up and carbon dioxide is released as a by-product. Respiration is a continual process that does not stop at night. Thus, photosynthesis stores food ‘energy’, whereas respiration releases energy.
In a heavily planted aquarium, respiration has a significant effect on oxygen levels within the tank. In any 24-hour period, plants release more oxygen through photosynthesis than they use up during respiration. Bacterial organism also use up oxygen continually through respiration. At night, a heavily planted aquarium can quickly use up oxygen until it is at such a low level that fish begin to suffer from oxygen deficiency. The problem is generally confined to heavily planted aquariums with little aeration or water movement, and be remedied by increasing oxygenation at night. Plants do not generally appreciate a high oxygen level in the aquarium because it diminishes their ability to obtain nutrients. This means that constant aeration is not beneficial in planted aquariums and should only be employed at night, when oxygen deficiencies may occur. The aim is to balance the needs of the plants and the fishes in a planted aquarium.

(Contents are taken from the book of MiniEncyclopedia Aquarium Plants)

They are family, algae eater.

2008-05-17T00:46:00.005+08:00

Close up view of the Yamato, Red Cherry, Red Crystal shrimps and snail.

like the cool face of 'Yamato' shrimp, like wearing a cap.

Red Crystal Shrimp (RCS)

a tiny little guy, always busy with their food.

Red Cherry

RCS on the vege farm.

A pregnant Red Cherry.

a busy RCS is searching around for food.

Tested JBL Ferropol

2008-05-14T14:45:00.008+08:00

Tested the JBL Ferropol fertilizer to find out how much Iron in it. The result as seen in the photo, the test value is over 1.0ppm(mg/l).

Testing done by mixing 5ml aquarium water (0ppm Iron) with chemical solution and add 1ml of Ferropol in the test tube. This shows that JBL Ferropol is providing sufficient Iron for the plants.

Why red plants aren't red, always turned into green?

2008-05-14T11:18:00.006+08:00

After failing to keep the Ludwigia in my tank, there are many questions floating in my mind. Did alot of searching on internet to know how to plant it and why it happened. Many forumers also complain about the red aqua plant that it is kind of difficult to keep, always turning green from red, no matter how much irons added into the tank. Actually the main reason is that different light demands from the red plant and the green plant, therefore when most of the green plant grows healthily, the red plant always turned into green. Thus confirming that both plant's light innate nature demand are different.

Green leaf absorbs red and blue light in spectrum and red leaf needs blue and green light, this is because red plant has anthocyanin in the leaf. They are actually reproached outside the B chlorophyll; therefore the red plants looked red. If you place the red leaf in hot water, the anthocyanin will then be able to dissolve in hot water, causing red color turning into green.

The secret of how to make the red color plant look gorgeous:
1. Extend the illumination period,
2. Increase the light intensity and carbon dioxide densities,
3. Make sure water is in low PH value and low temperature.If the above conditions are obtainable, then planting a red plant is not actually that difficult.

Regardless of green or red plants, both has iron in it, but is only in a micro substance (standard content is approximately 0.076ppm). Iron is important to many kind of enzymes, in the aqua plant, it is extremely important to oxidation reduction catalyst, like the carbohydrates oxidized nitric acid and sulfate return to original state, it has the close relationship with the iron.

On the other hand, oxygen produced during photosynthes is also depends on the iron albuminate-the organic compound, when lacked of iron, plants will then go into etiolation stage, and if condition worsen it may cause the plant to necrosis. Ferrous iron ion (Fe2+) is the most valuable ion in aqua plants, when the water chemistry changed from neutral to alkaline (i.e. when the PH value was equal to 7 or above), the iron can precipitate and becomes non-dissolved iron, this is the reason why PH value is preferred at the low level. Thus, from the above theory, no matter red or green plants, Iron (Fe) is an indispensable trace element.

Update: Added new plants

2008-05-08T10:59:00.005+08:00

Added 3 species of plant in my tank, they are Rotala macrandra 'Green', Micranthemum umbrosum, and Ludwigia brevipes.

Understanding The Golden Ratio In Your Planted Tank

2008-05-07T09:29:00.015+08:00

Probably, you are here because you would like to know how to improve your aquascaping skill, what is the Golden Mean, look at examples, read some articles or maybe use your own tank photo as a guild.

When we are talking about aquascape, the first thing in mind is to consider the Golden Ratio or Golden Section.

Throughout history, the ratio for length to width of rectangles of 1.61803 has been considered the most pleasing to the eye. This ratio was named the golden ratio by the Greeks. In the world of mathematics, the numeric value is called "phi", named for the Greek sculptor Phi Dias.

The Golden Ratio can occur anywhere. In plain English we can say that two lengths are in the Golden proportion if the ratio of the shorter length to the longer length is equal to the ratio of the longer length to the sum of both lengths. Let S=shorter length and L=longer length. Then using mathematical notation: S/L = L/(S+L).

We can solve this equation for S in terms of L and we find that L=S*(1+5^.5)/2 or approximately L=1.61803S. (If you know how to solve the equation above by using the quadratic formula, then prove to yourself that this is true.) So this is the unique case where the two lengths are in the Golden Ratio.

There are tons of explanations of Golden Ratio on the web, I am not going to describe the mathematical basics of these rules because they are well-described in other places. Let’s start with how to apply in our planted tank.

1. Prepare a photo of your planted tank or an empty tank photo for drawing the golden lines.

2. The first "golden" rule is the "Golden Ratio". It affects the ratio (1:1.618) of a picture size, as well as the placement of the main subjects in the photo. But you need to consider the composition: main subject should lie on one of the four lines or four intersections (subject's eye for example). Creating the “golden” line is pretty simple, measure the length of the tank, and divides the number by 2.61803. For example: Length = 900mm / 2.61803 = 343.76993mm (approx. 344mm), and the second line is easier, 900mm - 344mm = 556mm. Do the same for the tank's height.

3. After selected the horizontal & vertical lines, can draw for another cross line. (The red lines above are the Golden Ratio/Section)

4. Draw the first line diagonally across from the edge of top left corner to bottom right corner of the photo. This line must intersect with the “golden” lines intersection.

5. And now, draw another line from the bottom left corner across to touch the top part of vertical golden line.

6. Temporarily ignore the golden lines and erase the top section of the last drawn line to get another rule is the "Golden Triangles". It's more convenient for photos with diagonal lines. There are three triangles with corresponding shapes. Just roughly place three objects within these triangles and this rule would be kept. (End)

Basically from the tutorial above is just a new beginning for those still confuse about the Golden Ratio,Golden Section or Golden Triangles, and I made it simple to understand on how to divide proportionately.

Below are my tank's photos.

From the above photo, the composition seems to be a bit complicated which I've learnt it from ADA's concept. I am still trying very hard to self learn on the theory.

But, for a basic composition like the photo shown above (single point perspective), is easier to understand how to make your tank look more deeper. The intersection above is the place where main subjects should be there. Well, here is it, enjoy playing around with the "golden" concepts.

Update: 3' planted tank

2008-05-05T11:13:00.006+08:00

After few days of rescaping, I trimmed off some unwanted leaves and did water change. As the forum friends suggested to me to remove some white stones, it makes the tank look too unnatural. And added new plants at the rear of the tank's left side.

New family members added and it is growing!

2008-05-05T10:56:00.009+08:00

Bought 3 Red Crystal Shrimps(RCS), and after a day they are moving around in the tank happily. Hope that they can survive longer, my past experience taught me that CRS is a species sensitive to the enviroment, a single mistake is enough to wipe them out.

Are you ready for the International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest 2008?

2008-05-05T00:35:00.003+08:00

Here is the link to the main webpage:
http://www.adana.co.jp/_e_contest/

Online Submission:
http://www.adana.co.jp/formmail/form_data/contest2008/_formhtml/form.html

Hard Copy Submission:
http://www.adana.co.jp/_e_contest/image/08-contest-E2.pdf

If you are ready, please submit before 31 May 2008.......Good Luck!!

Little guy swims around

2008-05-02T14:29:00.005+08:00

After seeing these little guys all over the plants and ground, I had felt more easy and not so worry about the water quality problems. Nothing happened since the last adult Red Cherry had been eaten by others until today. Still need to keep any eye on the tank too.

Attacked or died naturally??

2008-05-01T17:36:00.013+08:00

Oh gosh! What happened to my Red Cherry shrimp? Ate by Amano shrimp............ =.=
I was afraid the water quality still unstable, cause the shrimp died, tested the pH 6.2 and KH 2.0 by this morning , after calculated the CO2 level is 37.86ppm, it should not be the cause of killing the shrimp. Is a big question mark to me now.

Rescape my tank

2008-05-01T01:55:00.012+08:00

Was really tired after rescaping my aquatic tank until midnight, it took me a few hours to relocate the stones, plants and did water change as well. Water is still in cloudy condition as you can see in the photo, perhaps 2 days later, the water will be crystal clear again.

So far the design is satisfying, however there are still room to improve on the layout. Well, this is my third time rescape the tank, and it's really a tough work. Now I will leave the tank to stabilize for 2 weeks to allow the plants to grow bushy and by then I will trim the plants to achieve the planned layout.

New idea of the layout

2008-04-30T11:24:00.008+08:00

Top view plan

For the past few days, I have the urge to rescape my tank, but without a good idea is very hard for me to start moving the drift wood & plants. The plan above is the latest idea of how to place each plants, drift wood, and stones.

Legend:

SPIKY MOSS
HEMIANTHUS CALLITRICHOIDES
MICROSORUM PTEROPUS ‘NARROW’ (NARROW FERN LEAF)
MICROSORUM PTEROPUS 'WINDELOV'
ANUBIAS BARTERI var. NANA
CRYPTOCORYNE UNDULATA
VALLISNERIA ASIATICA var. BIWAENSIS
LOBELIA CARDINALIS
DRIFT WOOD
NEW!! GRASS TYPE PLANT

Recipe for DIY CO2 & equipments

2008-04-29T16:29:00.020+08:00

I have successfully brew the CO2 since many months ago, and sharing my recipe in here.

The sequence & volume uses:

I am using two numbers of 1 litre bottle(1000ml) (as shown in photo below).
Ready 250ml (g) of sugar, fill it in the container.
Pour in 500ml of tap water, and 250ml of boiling water (ratio 2:1).
Do not shake the bottle, let the sugar sink to the bottom with lukewarm water.
And now, put in 2.5ml (1/2 teaspoon) of yeast.
Lastly, put in 5ml (1 teaspoon) of Soda bicarbonate.
Quickly seal the cover to prevent any bacteria get in the bottle.
Put it in a corner for about an hour to let the yeast fully active.

There is evidence that yeast mixtures last longer if you decrease the amount of yeast, and conversely last shorter periods if more yeast is used. Lower yeast also means less CO2 produced per minute, but produce more consistantly over time. Higher yeast levels will cause an initial higher burst of CO2 production with a gradually declining production over time. Keep this in mind while experimenting.

DIY a 1 litre 'milk' bottle is simple, punch a hole and put in a connector and air tube on top the cover and sealed the cover with hot glue gun after mixing yeast, soda and sugar. While this is probably the best method available, it can be cost prohibitive. A nice compromise is the DIY CO2 system. nowadays need to mix in between 9~12 days, and using 2 bottles to push out more bubbles to get 25~35ppm.

DIY a simple plastic container with drilling 2 holes on top the cover and put on the hose connector and air tube, sealed it with the hot glue gun. Then, that is a bubble counter. Later fill in some water to let the bubble out from the tube for counting.

Bought the CO2 reactor on 2006. It works good, diffuse Co2 in water achieve near to perfect. I like it! Even better then the conservative type. And the surface skimmer works good too, no more oil slick on the water surface.

My plants in the tank

2008-04-29T10:34:00.010+08:00

Some of my plants already keep in the tank for about a year plus and some just few months ago. Those slow growing plants recently infected by green spot algae and black brush algae seriously. Last week I was injected more CO2 in the tank, can see some GSA really gone about 30% in a week, and add in small amount of Phosphate also helping to reduce a bit algae. I will keep an eye on the algae for a period. Tested the pH at 6.0 last week, and the Red Cherry getting more active and happy with low pH, and also keep breeding in the tank.

left: POGOSTEMON HELFERI

right: SPIKY MOSS

left: ANUBIAS BARTERI var. NANA
right: LOBELIA CARDINALIS
(not sure about it)

left: HEMIANTHUS CALLITRICHOIDES
right: (temporary unknown)

top: MICROSORUM PTEROPUS 'WINDELOV'

left: VALLISNERIA ASIATICA var. BIWAENSIS

right: CRYPTOCORYNE UNDULATA

top: MICROSORUM PTEROPUS ‘NARROW’ (NARROW FERN LEAF)

Layout - Island Style

2008-04-25T20:41:00.005+08:00

Well, this layout has been keeping for several months, the plants growing and algae also grow together with it. Now my tank keeping few type of shrimps, 'Red Cherry' happy with the environments and making their next generation. I planned to rescape it, and afraid of disturbing the 'Red Cherry', and temporary no ideas what should I do for next.

Some history of my 33" planted tank

2008-04-25T20:10:00.008+08:00

These photos are my early stage 2006-2007 setup of the planted tank, without any experience in the beginning, know nothing about plants, and the worst is the aquascape skill really like a crap. Keeping a healthy planted aquarium and a good biological system isn't that easy and need to spend lots of efford & time to take care of it. Here is a place that I am sharing my experience and the stuff that I am using. May not be a good method, but it can be an idea or a study case that success to growth the plants. During setup the new aquarium, the bacteria in the filter system have not fully colonized and the water body is loaded with nutrients from withering leaves. It is best to plant densely from he start to prevent algae growth. Never start with a sparse tank as you only asking for trouble.
Of course it would be best to start with all your favorite plans provided you have the available quantity to begin with. If it is of budgetary concern, you can always start off with a combination of your intended plants along with cheaper, faster growing ones as starter plants. The strategy is to have your aquascape element arranged in accordance with your intended layout. Plant only those plants you intended for your design and leave the rest of the cheap starters plant in their plastic pots. Arrange them sparingly in the aquarium to maintain the tank's equilibrium. When the planted plants begin to acclimatize and produce vigorous growth, gradually remove the pots one at a time every 2 weeks. This way, you can maintain the balance and still have the ones you prefer. Different types of aquascape call for different strategies in cultivation of aquatic plants. For instance, if you plan to use Cryptocoryne as the focus of your layout, most of the leaves will melt away as it tries to acclimatize to its new enviroment, lending it a desloate look to the aquarium until new buds start to develop again. In this case, you will have to consider the beauty of the aquarium as well as faster growing starter stem plants that require stronger lighting. After a period of time, the stem plants growth will begin to show a decline, which is relative to the decrease in lighting intensity and other factors such as acidity and water hardness. Under such conditions, it would then be ideal and practical to introduce Cryptocoryne since they do better in mature tanks

top: the last design/layout of year 2007
bottom: new design/layout of year 2008