My Photography

My Photography
Off topic post, recently a bit active in photo shooting more than aquascape. The reason why I do that is to understand the nature, like Mr Takashi Amano does. So is a helpful skill to develop our aquascaping and some nature behaviour. The place I am staying has such a limited stone scape, but worth for deep in study of the formation. If you like my photography, please drop a 'LIKE' on my link. Thank you very much.

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Result of 2010 ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest

Congrats to those winners, surprised me that 2010 ADA International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest has 1819 participants all over the world. Compared to last year only 1342 applications. Too bad that I didn't manage to join for it, but I am ready for the year 2011. I think it is getting tough for the coming years, because more and more good design/layout done by the aqua hobbyist.

Here is the world ranking lists, if those didn't manage to get it can download from here.
World Ranking 1 - 608 (PDF)

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

New plant added!

Just bought some 'Pelia' & tied on the drift woods, at the moment still looks good, but later when growing up, totally I have no idea how will it be, and because this is the first time I am keeping some 'Pelia' in the tank. I need to do more research on this plant to maintain it in top condition, and do hope that I have more time to do so.

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Update my tank photo

It has been nearly 3 months I'd never update my tank, and also lack of time to take care of it. Just trimmed off the plants & clean up the tank, even the scape also a bit messy. But 1 thing I like the the grey stone has grew some green algae on it, really natural look. Planned to add on some stone in someday, and the hairgrass has some hair algae grew on it, I am not really scare about that when the whole system well maintain and it will slowly get away. Nowadays only dose ADA Brighty K, Seachem Flourish Excel & Flourish Trace.

The tiny Pogestemon Helferi "Downoi" is grow up a lot, now is the time to wait for it to grow more babies.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Pity Downoi is Alive!

Poor little Downoi (Pogostemon helferi) is alive! I am saving it's life from the old tank, previously had grown up nearly to 20 plants, just a lack of good care cause everything has gone, just found the last small pity plant hiding in a dark corner. And now, it is alive, must take serious good care on it to grow more plants.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Just added Ember Tetra (Hyphessobrycon amandae)

Last 2 days visited to a local fish shop(LFS) and bought these small size fish, in fact never saw Ember Tetra before, totally no idea the fish characteristic, but that 2cm maximum length attracted me. I was thinking to have some small fish in the tank, but normally found the 4~5cm in size, it is a bit too big for me, these 2cm Ember Tetra really rare and hard to find in any LFS.

Saw some others has the redish color fish, but what I have is the orange color species, I am still thinking the color has a bit wash out, need to adjust the water condition to see any changes. Here are some info found from the internet.

Family : Characidae

Distribution : Rio Araguaia basin, Brazil.

Habitat : Inhabits quiet tributaries off the main river channels, backwaters and oxbow lakes. It often gathers under cover of overhanging or marginal vegetation.

Maximum Standard Length : 0.8" (2cm)

Minimum Tank Size : A standard 18" x 12" x 12" (45cm x 30cm x 30cm) - 42 litre tank is easily big enough for a shoal of these.

Tank Setup : A biotope setup would be very simple to arrange. Use a substrate of river sand and add a few driftwood branches (if you can't find driftwood of the desired shape, common beech is safe to use if thoroughly dried and stripped of bark) and twisted roots. A few handfuls of dried leaves (again beech can be used, or oak leaves are also suitable) would complete the natural feel. Aquatic plants are not a feature of this species' natural waters. Allow the wood and leaves to stain the water the colour of weak tea, removing old leaves and replacing them every few weeks so they don't rot and foul the water. A small net bag filled with aquarium-safe peat can be added to the filter to aid in the simulation of black water conditions. Use fairly dim lighting.

Alternatively, it also does well in a well maintained, heavily planted tank. As any of these seen for sale will almost certainly be wild caught a more general setup is not really suitable.

Temperature : 75-82°F (24-28°C)

pH Range : 5.5-7.0. It tends to appear a little pale and washed out when kept in alkaline conditions.

Hardness : 1-10°H

Diet : Omnivorous and will accept just about anything offered. It does have a small mouth, though, so correspondingly-sized foods are best. Feed a mixture of dried flakes and granules and small live and frozen foods. A varied diet, such as this, is essential for the best colour development.

Compatibility : It's a very peaceful species that won't compete well with very boisterous or much larger tankmates. The tiny adult size means it also makes a tasty snack for many commonly kept species, such as angelfish or some gouramis. Ideally, keep it with other quiet South Americans, such as small tetras, pencil fish, Apistogrammadwarf cichlids, dwarf Corydoras and Otocinclus. It could also be combined with smaller cyprinids and Anabantoids if geography isn't an issue.

Always buy a group of at least 6 of these, preferably 10 or more. It is a shoaling species by nature, and will fare much better when in the company of its own kind. Like most tetras it actually looks far more effective when maintained like this anyway.

Sexual Dimorphism : Females are stockier than males, particularly when in spawning condition.

Breeding : Can be bred in a similar way to other species in the genus. You'll need to set up a separate tank if you want to raise decent numbers of fry. Something around 18" x 10" x 10" in size is fine, and you could even get away with something a little smaller. This should be very dimly lit and contain clumps of fine-leaved plants such as java moss or spawning mops, to give the fish somewhere to deposit their eggs. Alternatively, you could cover the base of the tank with some kind of mesh. This should be of a large enough grade so that the eggs can fall through it, but small enough so that the adults cannot reach them. The water should be soft and acidic in the range pH 5.5-6.5, gH 1-5, with a temperature of around 80-84°F. Filtering the water through peat is useful, as is the use of RO water. A small air-powered sponge filter bubbling away very gently is all that is needed in terms of filtration.

It can be spawned in a group, with half a dozen specimens of each sex being a good number. Condition these with plenty of small live foods and spawning should not present too many problems.

Alternatively, it can be spawned in pairs. Under this technique, the fish are conditioned in male and female groups in separate tanks. When the females are noticeably full of eggs and the males are displaying their best colours, select the fattest female and best-coloured male and transfer them to the spawning tank in the evening. They should spawn the following morning.

In either situation, the adults will eat the eggs given the chance and should be removed as soon as eggs are noticed. These will hatch in 24-36 hours, with the fry becoming free swimming 3-4 days later. They should be fed on an infusoria-type food for the first few days, until they are large enough to accept microworm or brine shrimp nauplii.