My Photography

My Photography
Off topic post, recently a bit active in photo shooting more than aquascape. The reason why I do that is to understand the nature, like Mr Takashi Amano does. So is a helpful skill to develop our aquascaping and some nature behaviour. The place I am staying has such a limited stone scape, but worth for deep in study of the formation. If you like my photography, please drop a 'LIKE' on my link. Thank you very much.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Why red plants aren't red, always turned into green?

After failing to keep the Ludwigia in my tank, there are many questions floating in my mind. Did alot of searching on internet to know how to plant it and why it happened. Many forumers also complain about the red aqua plant that it is kind of difficult to keep, always turning green from red, no matter how much irons added into the tank. Actually the main reason is that different light demands from the red plant and the green plant, therefore when most of the green plant grows healthily, the red plant always turned into green. Thus confirming that both plant's light innate nature demand are different.

Green leaf absorbs red and blue light in spectrum and red leaf needs blue and green light, this is because red plant has anthocyanin in the leaf. They are actually reproached outside the B chlorophyll; therefore the red plants looked red. If you place the red leaf in hot water, the anthocyanin will then be able to dissolve in hot water, causing red color turning into green.

The secret of how to make the red color plant look gorgeous:
1. Extend the illumination period,
2. Increase the light intensity and carbon dioxide densities,
3. Make sure water is in low PH value and low temperature.If the above conditions are obtainable, then planting a red plant is not actually that difficult.

Regardless of green or red plants, both has iron in it, but is only in a micro substance (standard content is approximately 0.076ppm). Iron is important to many kind of enzymes, in the aqua plant, it is extremely important to oxidation reduction catalyst, like the carbohydrates oxidized nitric acid and sulfate return to original state, it has the close relationship with the iron.

On the other hand, oxygen produced during photosynthes is also depends on the iron albuminate-the organic compound, when lacked of iron, plants will then go into etiolation stage, and if condition worsen it may cause the plant to necrosis. Ferrous iron ion (Fe2+) is the most valuable ion in aqua plants, when the water chemistry changed from neutral to alkaline (i.e. when the PH value was equal to 7 or above), the iron can precipitate and becomes non-dissolved iron, this is the reason why PH value is preferred at the low level. Thus, from the above theory, no matter red or green plants, Iron (Fe) is an indispensable trace element.

1 comment:

Ace Aquascapes said...

Thanks for sharing the info, ive seen the same effect in my ponds and aquariums.... its just the light.

Thanks. !

I invite you to share your experience and link on our facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/aceaquascapes

Specification For 20" Tank

Tank size : L20" x D13" x H13"

Light system : Aqua Zonic Super Bright double tube 24W T5 lamp with 12000K brightness

Filter system : "DIA" 502 Canister filter with ADA Bio Rio, JBL Symec, JBL PhosEx plus and bamboo charcoal insides.

Substrate : JBL Floralpol, JBL AquaBasis plus
layer 2 - ADA Aqua Soil (Amazonia II)

C O 2 : DIY type, 2 x 1 litre bottle, 35~40 bubbles/min.

Airation : after lights off, approx. 11 hours.

Water : Changed 1/3 tank water Once a week, dosing Stress Zyme(benificial bacteria).

Fertilizer : ADA Brighty K, Seachem Flourish Trace & Excel


Old Tank Specification:

Tank size : L33" x D15" x H16" custom made clear glass tank (8mm thick)7425 cubic inch, 32.1 gallons, 121.6 litres (based on H15" water)

Light system : Normal light with electronic ballast
32W 8000K NEC circline light x 3nos.
22W 6200K Philips circline light x 2 nos.
9W Red Aqua PL double tube x 2nos.
a total of 158W = 1.3W/litre = 4.9W/gallon

Filter system : "DIA" 502 Canister filter with ADA Bio Rio, JBL Symec, JBL PhosEx plus and bamboo charcoal insides.

Substrate : JBL Floralpol, JBL AquaBasis plus
layer 2 - ADA Aqua Soil (Amazonia)
layer 3 - size of 5mm pebble stones (front)

C O 2 : DIY type, 2 x 1 litre bottle, 35~40 bubbles/min.

Airation : after lights off, approx. 11 hours.

Water : Changed 1/3 tank water twice a week, dosing Stress Zyme(benificial bacteria).

Fertilizer : JBL Ferropol, ADA Brighty K, JBL the 7+13 balls, PMDD - KNO3, KH2PO4, K2CO3, CaCl2 & MgSO4.